Earlier this month, I traded my teaching bench for a student bench and traveled to Arrington, Tennessee, just outside Nashville, for five days of intensive training at the New Approach School for Jewelers.
Returning to the role of student was both humbling and energizing. Even after years of working as a metalsmith, there are always new techniques to explore, different tools to understand and another level of precision to work toward.
A WEEK AT NEW APPROACH SCHOOL FOR JEWELERS
The New Approach School is located on a beautiful property in the Tennessee countryside, about 30 minutes outside Nashville. Inside, the classroom is designed specifically for professional bench-jeweler training, with fully equipped workstations, microscopes and large screens for viewing live demonstrations in close detail.
From August 3–7, I attended the school’s Stone Setting Comprehensive workshop. The five-day program covered flush, prong, channel, bezel, gypsy and bead setting, along with bur control, graver preparation and setting both round and fancy-shaped stones.
The pace was fast, the days were long and an incredible amount of information was packed into the week.
LEARNING FROM BLAINE LEWIS
The class was led by Blaine Lewis, owner, president and lead instructor of New Approach. Blaine has been at the forefront of jeweler education for nearly 30 years and has taught more than 14,000 students.
His approach is highly visual and hands-on. Each demonstration was shown at high magnification, allowing us to closely study every cut, angle and movement before returning to our benches to practice.
The techniques were broken down into understandable steps, but executing them still required patience, concentration and many hours behind the microscope.
FIVE INTENSE DAYS AT THE BENCH
Throughout the week, we worked with brass practice mountings and simulated stones. This allowed us to concentrate on learning each technique without the added concern of damaging an expensive stone or precious-metal setting.
We practiced everything from traditional round-stone settings to princess- and emerald-cut stones. We also worked on channel setting, flush setting, heavy-wall bezels, short-prong basket settings and several techniques involving gravers.
Some of my favorite projects were the Tiffany-style prong setting, multi-prong, and channel setting and princess-cut stones. Fancy-shaped stones require a different kind of precision, and I enjoyed seeing how each setting must be adapted to the individual shape and structure of the stone.
THE CHALLENGE OF DAY TWO
Day two was the most challenging for me by far! We began working with gravers and practiced bead setting, a technique that requires control, consistency and a very different feel at the bench.
I struggled with it. But that is also part of why I traveled to Tennessee for this training. Growth does not always happen while working within the techniques that already feel familiar.
By the end of the week, I had a much better understanding of how the gravers worked and exactly what I need to continue practicing. It is a skill I look forward to developing further in my own studio.
THE SETTINGS I LOVED MOST
As the week continued, I felt increasingly comfortable working with the microscopes, specialized burs and high-speed tools. Each setting presented a different challenge, from maintaining symmetry in a princess-cut stone to creating clean seats and evenly shaped prongs.
BRINGING THE EXPERIENCE HOME
By Friday afternoon, I was exhausted but incredibly inspired. The week reminded me that becoming more skilled at the bench is a continual process built through practice, patience and a willingness to struggle with something new.
I returned home with a long list of techniques I want to revisit, practice and eventually incorporate into my own Silver Raven Studio work.
I learned so much while also realizing how much more there is to learn. That is one of the things I continue to love most about this craft.
